As
always, make sure bdsm/kink play is safe, sane, and consensual. Never
leave your sub alone during bdsm play. Prepare everything needed
before restraining your sub so there’s no need to step away until
after you’ve released him. When using rope or any tightly fitting
cuffs, always periodically feel your sub’s hands/feet/balls
(whatever is tied) to ensure they aren’t cold. Cold is a sign of
circulation loss which needs to be addressed immediately by removing
the restraints in that area before your sub gets hurt.
Specific
to this week’s tutorial, make sure your sub is balanced on the
stool and that it doesn’t tip over, especially when he’s
tied/cuffed to it. Although it’s sturdy, anything is possible.
Safety first! As always, be very careful when using power tools such
as a drill and especially a hole saw. A hole saw makes it easy to cut
a perfect circular hole of a specific size pretty quickly, but things
can slip. Keep that in mind and take the necessary precautions such
as wearing safety glasses, and even gloves may be a smart move…just
in case. Start slow and get a feel for how things are working before
pulling that trigger all the way and letting it fly.
Parts
list:
A cheap
wooden stool with square legs(not
round). These
stoolswork
perfectly for this as well as the previous part and the next part of this tutorial, they’re
pretty cheap, and they come in a set of 2. Use the other as an actual
stool, or parts for future kinky creations. The price of these
fluctuate, but I’ve seen them as low as about $39 for 2.
A
tape measure or ruler (any size 1 foot or longer will work)
Safety
glasses (and work gloves are a good idea, especially if you aren’t
150% comfortable using a hole saw)
A
hand held vacuum to clean up tons of saw dust that you’re sure to
have after this project (Safety first! Please don’t leave wood
shavings laying around when your sub is walking barefoot in your
playroom to try out your new bondage stool) 😉
Optional,
but recommended for added functionality:
A hardware pack including two ¼ inch carriage bolts (with smooth, rounded heads), 1.5 to 2
inches in length, and 2 washers and 2 wing nuts to fit them
Implementation
steps:
Start
with the stool standing up on the floor.
If
you performed the steps in Part
1
in last week’s Tutorial Tuesday post, you should be starting with
something that looks like this:
Place
a tape measure across the seat of the stool and mark the center with
a pen or a small starter hole using a drill bit.
Put
your safety glasses on since this part is messy and will likely cause
wood shavings to fly around unpredictably. If you aren’t 150%
comfortable with using a hole saw, or even if you are, you may want
to wear gloves as extra protection from wood shavings flying as well
as if the hole saw slips or jerks out of your control a bit.
Place
the bit in your hole saw on the spot you marked, and start drilling
your hole.
This
part may take a little while (typically a few minutes to get through
the wood), and you’ll probably want to stop about half way through
and clean up the saw dust to make sawing through the other half much
easier. Try not to push your drill in too hard as that typically
causes it to jam. Just let it sort of hang in the slot that it carves
so the blades can lightly brush against the wood. You’ll probably
find this method much less frustrating than pushing in hard and
constantly having the hole saw jam.
In
5 minutes or so, you should finally get through the wood and have a
clean, somewhat smooth hole (but NOT smooth enough for your sub’s
cock/balls to hang through).
Sand
the inside and edges of the hole you just created. A quick and easy
way to do this is wrapping a small piece of sand paper around a pen
and taping the ends together, like this (this one is after use, so
it’s not in the best shape anymore):
Be
sure to get all edges, then carefully rub your finger along the edges
making sure it’s smooth. Keep in mind, your sub’s dick and balls will
soon be hanging through this hole. It would be much better for you to
feel a small splinter, remove it, then sand the hole better, than for
your sub to get a spinter in his dick or balls! 😉
This
much will allow for a few more functions for your bondage stool, but
if you have a 12 inch x 12 inch or larger piece of a carpet chair mat
laying around, why not add a bit more? For that part…
Place
the stool upside down on a section of carpet chair mat (with the
spikes facing down for now). Trace a line on the mat all the way
around the stool.
Trace
another line along the inside of the hole that you cut in the stool.
Cut
along the larger line to cut out a section of the mat that will fit
nicely on top of the stool.
Then
cut out the inner hole. (Important
note:
If using a hole saw for this part, be VERY careful! The hole saw is
very likely to slip on the mat, much more than it would slip on wood.
You may want to use a scissors or other tool instead to be safe, even
though that sounds like a pain in the ass to do.) Note: This pic also shows the drill holes from the next step.
Now
go back to the bondage stool, place the circular piece of carpet
chair mat on top of the stool with the spikes facing up. Using a ¼
inch drill bit, drill two holes, one on either side of the larger 4
inch hole. You’ll want them to be fairly centered between the larger
hole and the edge of the stool, but drilled on a flat part of the mat
(not into a spiked area).
When
that is done and the mat is removed, it should look something like
this.
Now
you’ve got a few more ways to play with your sub. Here are a few
ideas on how to use what you’ve built at this point:
Secure
your sub to the stool (with or without wrist/ankle restraints)
Have
your sub sit on the bondage stool. You can choose to cuff his wrists
and/or ankles to the eyebolts, but depending on how you work this
one, that may not be necessary. Put a parachute
ball stretcher
around his balls, or just use rope to tie them and leave an extra
loop tied in the rope. Then use clips, carabiner clips, chain and
padlocks, or just plain rope…whatever you have available to leash
his balls to one of the dowels under the stool. Make it taut enough
so he can’t possibly stand up. Now he’s stuck on the stool until you
release him (and his dick and balls are open for your twisted, but
safe, CBT ideas). You can even use a rope
lock tie down,
or this
mini version
of them, to restrain his balls so you can easily click-click-click it
tighter to stretch his balls lower.
And here’s how the clicking of that tie down works in action.
Regardless
of how you do it, the result should your sub being unable to get off
the stool, despite his struggling.
Secure
your sub to the stool and hang weights from his balls
Have
your sub sit on the bondage stool. For this one, you may want to lock
him in leather
wrist and ankle cuffs
and lock those to the eyebolts. His balls will be hanging through the
hole, perfect for hanging weights from. Kind of ironic, in this
example I hung the hardware pack that we used to build the bondage
stool, from my sub’s balls. 😉
Or
use a bungee cord to his cuffed wrists if you want to allow some
“give”.
Here’s
another close-up.
Put
your sub in a more interesting predicament
Place
the circular piece of the spiked mat on the bondage stool, with the
spikes facing up, and put the carriage bolts through the holes that
you drilled earlier.
Use
the washers and wing nuts to secure the mat on the stool from
underneath the seat.
Now
you can hang a heavier weight from your sub’s balls, one that he can
rest on the floor at least somewhat, if he remains low enough.
Or
if he sits on the stool (which means he would have to sit on the
spiked mat).
If
he chooses to stand up and avoid the spikes (assuming you don’t have
his hands cuffed to the stool), his balls will have to take the full
weight.
And
speaking of your sub’s balls…
Work
every muscle in his back and stretch his abs, or stretch his balls?
Maybe both!
Have
your sub kneel on the floor straddling the stool (similar to one of
the ideas from Part
1
of this post), but add a bit more to put him in a tough predicament.
Using 2 of these
clips
or a similar setup, you can rig things so your sub starts out arched
backward. He can pretty easily straighten up or even lean forward,
but doing so pulls a rope, which runs through a pulley to his balls.
And once he pulls that rope, it clicks to tighten, but will not
release even if he leans further back again. That means however much
he stretches his balls, they will remain stretched at least that much
until you release them. <grin>
Rear
view:
Close-up:
You
may want to have a towel or rubber mats ready, just in case this has
the same effect on your sub as his balls are cranked lower and lower,
and his legs are forced wider apart as a result. 😉
Next
week:
Do you have a sub that’s into ass play and gets bored with the
basics? The add-on to the bondage stool in part 3 is sure to put his
endurance to the test!
For this week, I’m reblogging part 2 of my most popular Tutorial Tuesday series, the Multi-functional Bondage Stool.
Another great thing about this build which you may not have noticed:
These wooden stools come in a set of two for a great price, which means extra seating in your playroom (or another bondage stool to use on a second sub). It also means for those of you who have roommates, frequent visitors, or just need to be discrete for any reason, you can easily remove the eyebolts and stack one stool on top of the other for storage. Then depending on where you store them, you cal also put something over the hole/holes of the bondage stool(s), such as a phonebook, etc. Then if anyone sees them, they won’t automatically think “Oh wow, you kinky fucker!” 😉
